Do Toners Really Work? Here's the Answer
Do Toners Really Work? We Consulted the Experts
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Toners, in the most traditional sense, are acidic liquid formulas that are high in alcohol content and made to assist in further cleansing the skin. However, as skin-care products have evolved over the years and Asian skin-care routines have made their way over to Western countries, the definition of toners has changed.
"Historically, facial cleansers were very alkaline to get oils off the face. When you washed your face, your skin's pH would be increased by the cleanser," said Dr. Heather Rogers, a clinical dermatologist and the founder of Restore. "Acidic toners were then created to help bring the pH back down to a more optimal pH for the skin."
Clinical dermatologist Dr. Joshua Zeichner said, "Toners are not what they used to be. Traditionally used to help balance the pH of the skin, they are [now used] for a variety of skin issues, ranging from excess oil to antiaging concerns." He continued, "They allow consumers to apply an extra layer of ingredients to their skin-care routine, as the toners can be applied underneath serums and moisturizers. The lines between essences, toners, astringents, and tonics are now being blurred with so many products on the market."
1 What exactly is a toner?
Toners, in the most traditional sense, are acidic liquid formulas that are high in alcohol content and made to assist in further cleansing the skin. However, as skin-care products have evolved over the years and Asian skin-care routines have made their way over to Western countries, the definition of toners has changed.
"Historically, facial cleansers were very alkaline to get oils off the face. When you washed your face, your skin's pH would be increased by the cleanser," said Dr. Heather Rogers, a clinical dermatologist and the founder of Restore. "Acidic toners were then created to help bring the pH back down to a more optimal pH for the skin."
Clinical dermatologist Dr. Joshua Zeichner said, "Toners are not what they used to be. Traditionally used to help balance the pH of the skin, they are [now used] for a variety of skin issues, ranging from excess oil to antiaging concerns." He continued, "They allow consumers to apply an extra layer of ingredients to their skin-care routine, as the toners can be applied underneath serums and moisturizers. The lines between essences, toners, astringents, and tonics are now being blurred with so many products on the market."
2 Why should we use toners?
There are many experts who avidly recommend that their clients use toner. Skin Laundry's director of medical operations, Elyse Shelger, RN, argues, "Toners help to remove any excess oil and makeup from the skin after cleansing. No matter how great your cleanser works, there are always residual oils left behind, which can be easily removed with a cotton pad and toner."
"Our skin thrives in a neutral to slightly acidic state," she continued. "The other benefit of toner is that the appropriate toner can help balance the pH level of your skin. The pH level affects our skin's natural ability to fight against bacteria and environmental stresses. As we age, our skin becomes more acidic in response to our lifestyle and our environment. Everything that comes in contact with our skin (products, smoking, air, water, sun, pollution) can disrupt the skin's natural pH level."
There are also a number of experts who recommend the use of toners in their more modern, Asian-beauty-inspired format. "In Asia, [toners are a] water-light leave-on formula that [are] applied to hydrate skin," says Vicky Tsai, founder and CEO of Tatcha. "[I often recommend the use of] the J-beauty version of toners, which are also called 'essences.'"
3 Are there any reasons to skip toners?
From what I can tell, skin-care experts are still pretty split on whether or not we need toners.
Dr. Mona Gohara, a clinical dermatologist and consulting dermatologist for Dove, says, "I don't often recommend toners. My feeling is if you use the right cleanser, you don't need this additional step." Cosmetic surgeon and cofounder of Avya Skincare Dr. Tanuj Nakra agrees, saying, "[I also] would not recommend using toners. The astringent properties of toners strip the skin's natural oils, which can have substantial consequences for the skin. There are more modern and gentler ways of addressing acne, oiliness, as well as pore size."
While some experts vehemently recommend to use or not to use toners, some others argue that while they're not necessary, they can be a welcome addition to a skin-care regimen. Dr. Parvaneh Rafaeloff, general physician and medical director at Le Jolie Medi Spa, says, "While toners aren't necessarily mandatory, they can help keep the skin clean and prep it to be an optimal blank canvas for serums, treatment products, and moisturizers."
Note that Gohara, Nakra, and Shelger all refer to toners in the traditional sense — as formulas that either further skin cleansing or help with combating oiliness and imbalance — while Tsai's definition of toners is rooted in Asian skin-care routines that promote balancing and hydration.
4 What ingredients should we be looking for when we buy toners?
Generally speaking, most of the experts I consulted recommended looking for toners that contain healthy acids, including salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA and BHA acids, and witch hazel. (Thayers Witch Hazel Toner ($11) is a favorite among POPSUGAR editors.) These acids help chemically exfoliate the skin and lift any excess oil and dirt away after cleansing. Currently, there are also a lot of toners on the market that address specific skin-care concerns, including dryness, acne, dullness, and oiliness, so you can pick an alcohol-free toner that caters to your skin's needs.
5 What ingredients should we avoid when it comes to toners?
Though there are many different opinions as to whether or not toners are necessary and what the actual definition of toner is, all skin-care experts agree that there is one ingredient to avoid when considering toners: alcohol.
Shelger, Rogers, Nakra, and Shah all specifically made a point to tell me that while there are many ingredients that work in toners, they highly advise picking up one that is alcohol-free. Rogers says, "[Alcohol] should be avoided, as it dries out the skin, causes irritation, and inhibits the skin's ability to heal itself."
6 When should we start using toners?
Overall, skin-care experts recommend that people start incorporating toners into their skin-care routine when it appears that their skin is getting oilier, whether that be due to puberty, hormone fluctuation, or environmental stresses. Rafaeloff mentions, "I recommend a toner should be introduced during puberty, when sebum and oil production are at their peak due to fluctuating hormonal levels."
Zeichner also noted that because toners are not an integral part of a typical skin-care routine, you can visit and revisit them as skin-care issues arise. "Just as you would select [other products in your routine], the same rules hold true with toners," he says. "If you feel that your skin needs an extra boost or you have hit a plateau [in] your traditional skin-care routine, a toner may help."
7 What toners do you recommend?
From personal experience, I have always used toners in a mix of both uses: hydrating and balancing. I suffer from severe dryness due to eczema, and oftentimes, even an intense moisturizer and hydrating serum are not enough to keep my skin from flaking, especially in the cold Winter months. I typically add in some kind of hydrating water-based toner or essence that has a thin, watered-down, mucus-like consistency, like the Leegeehaam Grow Hyal B5 Toner ($30), Tatcha The Essence ($95), or Peach & Lily Wild Dew Treatment Essence ($39). I also often use toners or micellar waters to remove any lasting dirt and grime from my face, like Garnier's SkinActive Micellar Cleansing Water ($9) or Skyn Iceland's Micellar Cleansing Water ($25).
I received a wide range of recommendations from the experts I consulted. For chemically exfoliating and cleansing formulas that can also help with acne and oiliness, the experts vouched support for Mario Bedescu's Glycolic Acid Toner ($18), Pixi's Glow Tonic ($15), and Olehenriksen's Balancing Force Oil Control Toner ($26), among others. For more hydrating formulas, try out the Fresh Rose Deep Hydration Facial Toner ($44), Belif Witch Hazel Herbal Extract Toner ($28), Clarins Toning Lotion With Camomile ($26), or any of my recommendations above.
8 Are there alternatives to using toners?
Because many dermatologists and other skin-care experts do not recommend the use of toners in your everyday skin-care routine, they instead advocate for gentle — but thorough — cleansers.
"An alternative to using a toner is to use an effective cleanser," says Gohara. "The Dove Beauty Bar ($13 for a pack of eight) is a great choice, as it deposits moisture into the skin as it cleans, leaving the skin softer and more radiant." Rogers also recommends gentle cleansing for people who have sensitive skin or rosacea.
As an alternative to an actual toner, you can also try single-ingredient solutions, such as witch hazel or apple cider vinegar. However, Shelger made sure to note that a product that combines many active ingredients is more likely to have a visible effect on the skin than one single home remedy. Another recommendation for a toner alternative is rose water, which can have a calming and purifying effect on the skin. Try out Lush's Eau Roma Water ($23) or Whamisa's Organic Flowers Damask Rose Petal Mist ($38).
Tsai also noted, "Sheet masks perform a similar function of swelling and plumping the skin with hydration, which allows deeper penetration of anything to follow." For Asian beauty skin masks that provide the benefits of hydrating toners, check out Tatcha's Luminous Dewy Skin Mask ($45 for a pack of four), the Dr. Jart+ Hydration Lover Rubber Mask ($12), or Glow Recipe's Watermelon Glow Jelly Sheet Mask ($8).
