The sheet mask vs. topical serum debate can't be settled until research shows one is more effective than another — and as of now, we just don't have the science to back such a claim definitively. Even though the jury is still out scientifically, neither Dr. Heidi Waldorf, dermatologist and associate clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai, and New York-based dermatologist Dr. Sejal Shah are ready to write off sheet masks as a pointless pursuit, provided the mask of choice offers the same or higher concentrations of active ingredients than topical serums do.
"Currently, we don't have rigorous clinical trials evaluating the effectiveness of sheet masks or how they compare to other types of masks or topically applied serums," notes Dr. Shah. "The mask itself provides an occlusive barrier, so theoretically can improve penetration of active ingredients. However, this may not be the case for every ingredient."
What's more, delivering active ingredients via a serum-soaked sheet mask may offer another leg up on topical serum: "The longer something is in contact with the skin the more effect it is likely to have on the stratum corneum, or outermost layer of the skin," Waldorf notes. Since masks are made to sit on the skin for an estimated 10 to 20 minutes per use, they may also be primed to better deliver ingredients like hyaluronic acid or peptides.
