Lovecraft Country's Best Style Moments, Ranked

While watching the plot twists and turns of HBO's Lovecraft Country, if you're anything like me, you might be lamenting, "Bummer, is Ruby going to ruin a gorgeous look each time she morphs?" or "Why did that monster have to explode in front of Leti? I loved that blouse!" Though the series is set in the 1950s, costume designer Dayna Pink (you may have seen her work in Bad Boys For Life and Crazy, Stupid, Love) combines gorgeous period fabrics and impeccable tailoring to make all of the cast's wardrobe enviable — even to wear now! Pink was inspired by real 1950s photography — the Lovecraft team even paid homage to the civil rights photojournalism of Gordon Parks in a few episodes — as well as fabrics that she found combing vintage stores and the stylings of modern-day designers.

Showrunner Misha Green is reported to have told Pink never to repeat an outfit, giving us a visual feast of looks. What we end up with is a period sci-fi thriller that, were it not for the more obvious signs of Jim Crow, could be set in modern-day America, for better or worse. This idea is only further emphasized by the great soundtrack of the series mixing period music, famous civil rights monologues, and modern hits from our favorite artists, like Rihanna and Cardi B. Each character's wardrobe tells their story and their position in the episode and even gives hints — as we see in the case of Christina and William — to plot twists. "There are many crossovers between Christina and William," Pink told us. "Feminine touches on him, masculine power pieces on her. There are even some pieces they share." While revisiting the episodes for this article, Christina and William's shared wardrobe was certainly a fun Easter egg to look out for!

The character of Letitia "Leti" Lewis is arguably the breakaway style star of the series. Leti seems to have the perfect look for every occasion, even giving us a fun fashion-looks montage at the Braithwaite mansion. Pedal pushers, fit-and-flares, swing dresses: though filled with period shapes, Leti's style feels very modern vintage. As a photographer and activist, she seems like someone you know who always find that perfect piece at the vintage store and makes it their own. "She has so many looks that would apply to different modern-day designers. It goes from Dior and McQueen to Stella McCartney and even Ralph Lauren for her denim. We tried really hard to create our own style for her, so I think it's a combination of things you've seen and hopefully some things that you haven't!" Pink explained.

Now that we've gotten to know most of the main characters a few episodes in, let's review their best style moments.

01
Utilitarian Function For an Epic Adventure
HBO

Utilitarian Function For an Epic Adventure

Form meets function for Leti's look in episode four. Leti wears a cream utilitarian jumpsuit and satchel for their Indiana Jones-esque adventure through the museum. It is a great complement to Tic's boxy chambray button-down.

02
Hippolyta's Subtly Wild
HBO

Hippolyta's Subtly Wild

Aunt Hippolyta gives us a hint that she is not one to fade into the background in this glowing mustard knit sweater and tiger-print A-line skirt. The more we learn about Hippolyta, the more we see she's a pioneer herself. Beware!

03
Those Wonderful Clingy Knit Shirts
HBO

Those Wonderful Clingy Knit Shirts

Leti's gray and merlot plaid shirt dress again is made even more eye-catching by how it plays off of Tic's grey knit polo in this short, but poignant, scene of episode one. While the ladies have gotten a lot of credit in this style rundown, the men's tailoring, especially as seen on Atticus Freeman, is standout. "I'm still a fan of those wonderful clingy knit shirts on men. I like the Italian silk ones for modern day. Even used one on Will Smith as his first outfit in Bad Boys 3!" Pink told POPSUGAR. We are certainly fans of it as well!

04
Lady of the House
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Lady of the House

After exorcising the spirit of Hiram Epstein, we see Leti assuming the position of the lady of her own house in episode four, smiling as Christina is unable to come in. Leti's pale-green, boatneck, beaded A-line dress exudes a youthful grace in contrast to Christina's during the showdown. Later on, in the library, it complements Tic's muted brick silk polo wonderfully.

05
Ruby Dazzles on Stage
HBO

Ruby Dazzles on Stage

Ruby with a flower in her hair and an ombré pink sequined dress looks every bit the sultry blueswoman as she sings at the bar in episode four, "A History of Violence." We're starting to understand Ruby's stage look by now, especially with the flowers in her hair.

06
Hints of William
HBO

Hints of William

This classic menswear-inspired look of Christina's in episode three is, in hindsight, a major plot clue as to her shared identity with William. In a pale blue (maybe even a pale robin's egg blue), pleated carrot pants, brogues, and even William's beloved outfit flourish, an ascot, Christina demands to be taken to Captain Lancaster. Her outfit hints that she's ready to play with the boys.

07
Italian Riviera Style
HBO

Italian Riviera Style

They say fashion always repeats itself, and this silk polo-style shirt with embroidery is something we see brands like Prada and Scaglione doing now! We loved the casual elegance of this shirt with pale-yellow, brocade pedal pushers and Leti's slip-on kitten heels.

08
Ruby, the Standout Songstress
HBO

Ruby, the Standout Songstress

Again, like in episode one, we see Ruby popping in a scene while everyone around her appears muted, much like her sister Leti. Ruby's fuchsia silk shirt dress and pink floral fascinator attract the eye as she croons on the mic in "The Holy Ghost"'s housewarming party.

09
1940s Statement Menswear
HBO

1940s Statement Menswear

When Uncle George, Leti, and Tic are attacked in the woods by Lovecraftian monsters for a second time in episode two, "Whiteys on the Moon," Christina Braithwaite appears ever the savior (again), this time on a white horse. Her entrance is made all the more dramatic by her billowing black cape, an image out of a Grimm fairy tale. Christina is wearing high-waisted, wide-leg pinstripe trousers and a satin blouse with a gorgeous teardrop gem necklace reminiscent of the 1940s and Katharine Hepburn gender-challenging looks. Perhaps this was our first nod to the Christina/William twist.

10
Hello, Mrs. Davenport
HBO

Hello, Mrs. Davenport

In episode five, " A Strange Case," we see Ruby transform into Hillary Davenport, her version of the model of white femininity and privilege. When she understands and makes the decision to embrace that privilege, "Hillary" sports perfectly coiffed hair, a black short-sleeved dress with a full black-and-white skirt, and statement red gloves, becoming the model of a June Cleaver-esque 1950s suburban housewife. It might be a little on-the-nose, but Hillary's primarily black-and-white outfit may be a nod to the duality of her character.

11
City Sophisticate Christina
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City Sophisticate Christina

Christina in a cornflower-blue, patterned, sculpted column suit and matching hat looks every bit the city sophisticate in episode three, "Holy Ghost." Until this point, when left to her own volitions around Ardham, it seems Christina prefers the ease of menswear silhouettes. In this scene, possibly revealing herself as a master manipulator who could have planned her own father's demise, Christina wears the smart suit of a working woman, creating a space for herself.

12
Introducing Letitia Lewis!
HBO

Introducing Letitia Lewis!

In contrast to Ruby's red, we meet Letitia Lewis, her sister, in a red outfit. The physical looks and style immediately set a sharp contrast between the two sisters in episode one. Leti wears a button-up, gathered V-neck bodice with a black full skirt with a striped hem and underpinnings and peekaboo pleats that she plays with as she performs.

When chatting with Pink, I mentioned that this intro look on Leti called to mind one of the most iconic images of Hollywood Golden Age film star Dorothy Dandridge, with whom Leti's sister shares a last name. It is a promo still of Dandridge in her role as Carmen from the titular movie with Harry Belafonte (my grandmother loved him). Pink confirmed that indeed, Dandridge was a major inspiration in the wardrobe for Leti.

13
Ruby's Rock-and-Roll Blues
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Ruby's Rock-and-Roll Blues

We're first introduced to Ruby Dandridge on stage, guitar in hand, singing rock-and-roll pioneer Sister Rosetta Tharpe's "I Want a Tall Skinny Papa" from the 1940s. We meet Ruby as a performer, purple daisy in her hair, all eyes on her as she takes center stage before her sister comes up and tries to share the limelight. The jewel tone of this sapphire silk fabric adds to Ruby's shine. Despite Ruby's fixation with getting a job at the Marshall Fields department store, we see time and time again in the series that on stage is where Ruby dazzles, and each time Ruby is on stage, her life changes.

14
Crochet Angel
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Crochet Angel

Speaking of summer inspiration, Tic's mother, Dora, appears to us in a dream sequence of Uncle George in episode two, "Whiteys on the Moon." And she looks every bit angelic in a gorgeous white crochet A-line dress that screams summer!

15
All-American Pinup Girl
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All-American Pinup Girl

Road trips were the most popular modes of travel this summer, and though episode one, "Sundown," premiered at the end of the summer season, Leti gives us some timeless road-trip style notes. As Leti, Uncle George, and Tic enter the dubious diner, she looks every bit the classic all-American pinup girl with her white halter, sailor shorts, cat-eye sunglasses, and red lips.

16
Blood-Money Red
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Blood-Money Red

Christina opens episode four, "A History of Violence," dipping in and out of lanes in her Rolls-Royce to Rihanna's "B*tch Better Have My Money." The curves of the Rolls-Royce complement the way the light hits the folds of Christina's bordeaux-red dress with a swing skirt that may be in the iridescent fabric shantung silk. This fabric, her big hat, and the Old Hollywood waves give Christina a film-siren femme fatale look. Pink told us that Christina's look is "very '40s and less '50s for many changes." What a fun bit of irony for a character seemingly attempting to shepherd in a new order!

17
Sporty Elegance
HBO

Sporty Elegance

Episode two, "Whiteys on the Moon," starts with a beautiful fashion montage set to The Jeffersons' theme song, "Movin On Up." We see Leti burst out of the shower and try on a wardrobe full of clothes: a red swing dress, sapphire and emerald jewel-toned looks, fur-cuffed pieces. She settles on a timeless equestrian-inspired look, with a twist. Leti wears a striped riding jacket, tan jodhpurs, a wine-colored vest, and a psychedelic pussy-bow blouse. Leti's vest complements Tic's short-sleeved, waffle-knit mustard henley and tailored high-waisted jeans perfectly. The night before, we find out that Leti is a formidable athlete, running track in high school. Though at the moment, she doesn't remember the night, could it be Leti's subliminal prepping for style and function in this highbrow setting that leads her to choose this equestrian look?

18
The Dress That Broke Twitter
HBO

The Dress That Broke Twitter

Lovecraft Country was building a solid fan base, but this scene with Letitia "f*cking" Lewis in episode three, "Holy Ghost," had Twitter abuzz. We had seen the strength of Leti's character from episode one and even hints as to her calling as an activist in this episode, but as she grabs the baseball bat and smashes the windows of her racist neighbors, Leti personifies every antiracist's superhero. There is a buildup to the night, though, and this sculpted drape bodice dress with column fringe is Leti's perfect armor throughout. During the housewarming party, coming down the stairs, Leti literally seems to burst into the scene, the jewel-toned dark teal of her dress standing out among the muted colors surrounding her. Moving perfectly as she dances, the dress reveals one more surprise as the night crescendos. It is only as Leti storms toward the car swinging, illuminated by the burning cross, that we see the red lining of the dress; Leti's inner rage, perhaps?