All the Major Trends at Men's Fashion Week, From Pastel to '90s Edge
Starting the new year off with a bang, designers are well into Men's Fashion Month for fall 2023. In other words, as the weather is still cooling, we're already looking forward to the brisk winds of next year. Included in the high-fashion lineup in Milan this past week were Gucci, Fendi, Prada, Maison Margiela, and Saint Laurent, to name a few. And now the fun continues in Paris.
This season, most designers used their menswear collections to explore the conversation between what garments are considered "traditionally" for men and "traditionally" for women. Many of the shows were quite gender-inclusive, leaving the viewer to question why the sartorial gender binary exists in the first place.
"I really want them to be almost one person," Saint Laurent artistic director Anthony Vaccarello said of his customers. "So women could be the men, and the men could be the women. No difference." Saint Laurent showed knit dresses and pussy-bow blouses, Prada included tank tops and pastel mohair cardigans, and Acne Studios crafted a collection of eyelet jackets, corset tops, and more.
Louis-Gabriel Nouchi's collection centered around tailored suits nipped at the waist, sheer fabrics wrapped around the bodice, and sleek knee-high boots. Along with the impeccable designs, he presented models of varying shapes and sizes and even tapped some famous faces for the cast, including "Emily in Paris"'s Lucas Bravo.
Ahead, check out the top shows from Men's Fashion Week 2023, inspiring your cold-weather wardrobe no matter your personal style. With tailored suiting and '90s-inspired details, these historic fashion houses have presented runway collections for fall that challenge not only your wardrobe, but the way you think about clothing in general.
Marine Serre will present its latest collection on Saturday, Jan. 21, at 8 p.m. CET. Dubbed "Rising Shelter," the offering is billed as a coed show, becoming yet another collection at Men's Fashion Week to think beyond the gender binary. Watch the fall 2023 line debut on the runway via the live stream above.
From sharp-shouldered suits cinched at the waist to draped sheer shirts wrapped around the bodice, Louis-Gabriel Nouchi challenged gender norms for a collection that embraced fluidity. He also made headlines for the casting alone, choosing men of varying sizes and shapes and enlisting models with body hair and full thighs — a rarity on the runway. His catwalk welcomed famous faces as well, with "Emily in Paris"'s Lucas Bravo, "The White Lotus"'s Stefano Gianino, and "Fire Island"'s Zane Phillips hitting the runway in "American Psycho"-inspired designs.
Anthony Vaccarello has been moving to make his women's and men's collections almost fluid with one another. "I really want them to be almost one person," he told Vogue. "So women could be the men, and the men could be the women." As such, his latest menswear collection featured traditional staples like tailored suiting, double-breasted coats, and tuxedo jackets. But he also added a romantic flair to his designs with knit dresses, pussy-bow silk blouses, duster coats, and more.
The '70s were alive and well at Fendi's fall 2023 show, with looks that included fringe blanket coats, one-shoulder tops, and leather and shearling jackets. The palette was quite neutral, mainly crafted of grays and browns, though a single hue was peppered throughout: lavender. The pastel tone covered everything from leather pants to tunic sweaters to oversize scarves to a model's hair.
This season's Prada collection had a theme: "Let's Talk About Clothes," with looks that seemed to walk the viewer through a greatest-hits list of fall outerwear essentials. There were blazers, toggle coats, bomber jackets, and two-button midis. Some of the earlier looks fell under the traditional menswear umbrella, with traditional black and gray suiting filling the runway. But many outfits also skewed gender-inclusive, with colorful blazers, mohair cardigans in pastel hues, and everything from tank tops to dresses following suit.
Givenchy's fall collection is a lesson in '90s edge, layering overcoats with turtleneck knits; shorts on top of slim pants; and cropped tops over longer tunics. All the throwback fixtures were in perfect place, including wool plaid, distressed hoodies, and camouflage prints.
In a press release from the brand, Acne Studios described its latest collection as "channeling a modern caveman," making use of materials that include exotics, leather, and shearling. Acne also played with the juxtaposition of what fashion is considered "traditionally" for men and for women, peppering the collection with eyelet jackets, off-shoulder tops, quilted coats, and corseted structures.
Though Alessandro Michele was one of the first mainstream designers to truly embrace gender-inclusive style, Gucci seemed to bend back in the opposite direction following his November departure. While some looks included wide-leg tweed pants, one-shoulder tanks, and tailored skirts, there was also a slew of tailored suiting, oversize coats, and puffer vests.