"Sex Education" Season 4 Celebrates Queerness Through the Hair and Makeup

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Netflix's "Sex Education" is back for a fourth and final season, and as if the show didn't already push the boundaries of gender and identity, it somehow upped the ante. The final eight episodes are just as moving as they are entertaining, and the larger-than-life makeup and hair certainly help move the storyline along.

Though the students of Moordale High have always played with color and dabbled in the latest trends, season four sees everyone's favorite characters in the next phase of their lives at Cavendish College. Here, everything is better — there are better clubs, better fashion, better opportunities for self-expression, and even a better sex therapist (depending on who you ask).

Beloved characters Otis (Asa Butterfield), Maeve (Emma Mackey), Eric (Ncuti Gatwa), Adam (Connor Swindells), Dr. Jean F. Milburn (Gillian Anderson), Ruby (Mimi Keene), and Aimee (Aimee Lou Wood) are joined by a host of new personalities — like Abbi (Anthony Lexa), Roman (Felix Mufti), and Aisha (Alexandra James) — sparking drama! Love! Comedy! And more save-worthy beauty looks than you can count.

"Three new main characters are responsible for bringing in the bigger, brighter, bolder, more extravagant looks," Emily Bilverstone, the show's hair and makeup department head, tells POPSUGAR. Before this, Eric was the only character really experimenting with beauty, but he's met his match with Roman, Abbi, and Aisha. "This is the first time that [Eric] has met three school friends who have raised his game in terms of his look and made him feel like he can push the boundaries even further."

These characters opened the doors for more play with hair and makeup, and the rest of the school followed suit. Ahead, Bilverstone shares a behind-the-scenes look at what went into creating some of the most eye-catching moments in season four.

Eric Steps Out of His Comfort Zone With Makeup
Netflix

Eric Steps Out of His Comfort Zone With Makeup

The beauty inspiration for Eric has always been Grace Jones, and Bilverstone was set on "finding a modern-day version of that." The new setting just opened the door for his character to completely transform.

Throughout the show, Eric experiments with his look as he explores his relationship with himself and his church, but that intensifies almost immediately in season four. "We wanted Eric to look like he was wearing makeup when he got to the new school, but it was still slightly more reserved," Bilverstone says. "He knew that he wanted to carry on wearing it, but he didn't necessarily know how the new students would be."

He barely gets a moment to park his bike before realizing Cavendish is a whole different ball game. "There's just queerness everywhere," Bilverstone says. It's represented in the color palette of the school with its stained-glass window and in the students' clothing. As soon as he gets home that day, you see him at his vanity playing with new products. "He's like, 'OK, I know what the school is like now, I know what I am going to wear tomorrow.'"

A particularly memorable moment occurs in episode 6 when Eric uses beauty to celebrate his queerness – and not just with products, but with packaging. He pulls out that viral penis-shaped lipstick by Isamaya as he takes a step further to becoming his authentic self. While the product might have been a social media favorite when it was released in March, Eric yet again proves that it's more than a cheeky product, it's a powerful symbol of self-acceptance.

Eric Was Almost Bleach-Blond
Netflix

Eric Was Almost Bleach-Blond

Eric's experimentation is not just limited to his clothes and makeup. He plays with his hair color a few times throughout the season, debuting purple hair in a dream sequence and green hair to go to a queer party with his new friends, but Bilverstone initially wanted him to try something completely different.

"I imagined seeing Eric with bleach-blond hair," she says. "But it didn't really work in terms of his relationship with the church — he was still hiding that part of his identity from them, so he needed something he could quickly take off before he went to his baptism classes." Bilverstone ended up using the Mofajang Unisex Hair Wax Color ($9) to make the color change only temporary.

Roman's Nails and Tattoos Only Saw Slight Tweaks
Netflix

Roman's Nails and Tattoos Only Saw Slight Tweaks

Roman is a member of the popular kids at Cavendish, and his hair, makeup, and nails reflect this status. Throughout season four, they're continuously playing with glitter, graphic eyeliner, and fun nail art. "Felix was already wearing nails when we met," Bilverstone says. "He brought that part of himself to the character of Roman."

But realistically, Bilverstone's team couldn't produce an entirely different manicure every time they shot a new scene, so they needed a workaround. They ended up having five different sets created by social-media-famous manicurist Fuego Nails so they could pop the tips on and off as needed.

Another element of himself that Felix brought to the character is his tattoos. "All of the tattoos that you see on Felix are his own," Bilverstone says. The only design they changed is the "2001" written across their chest in big numbers, signifying their birthdate. "We couldn't keep that, because Felix is playing someone younger." They brainstormed ways to transform the numbers into a different year that would make more sense before Felix was hit with an idea. "He was just like, 'Why don't we make it say Abbi? And it was the most obvious thing."

Ruby Tries to Signal Allyship With Her Makeup
Netflix

Ruby Tries to Signal Allyship With Her Makeup

While Cavendish College is a haven for some characters, it leaves others struggling to find their footing, like Otis and Ruby. "From the beginning, she's very much the Ruby that we saw in season three," Bilverstone says.

Her wardrobe, hair, and makeup stay relatively the same, except for the one scene where she desperately tries to fit in with the cool kids by donning an LGBTQ+ pin and rainbow colors, right down to her eyeshadow. "The first time you see her trying to experiment a little bit more is for a very selfish reason," she says. "She thinks if she wears this colorful eyeshadow, she might fit in a bit more, but it's all completely coming from the wrong place."

Blue Lip Gloss, Loose Glitter, and More Products Used on Set
Netflix

Blue Lip Gloss, Loose Glitter, and More Products Used on Set

There were a few key products used again and again on set, and we even get to see some of the characters using them on screen. Most iconically is Eric's blue lip gloss, which is the Glisten Cosmetics Ocean Glis Gloss Lipgloss ($15). He frequently can be seen with a metallic gold pigment in the inner corners of his eyes, which was created using the Lisa Eldridge Liquid Lurex Eyeshadow in Lauren ($27).

The entire cast also wore a lot of Glisten Cosmetics Wet Liners ($28, originally $33) in bright, fun hues. "Whenever you saw any really sparkly eyeshadow, a lot of that would've been Karla Cosmetics Loose Eyeshadow ($21)," Bilverstone says. "I wanted to use products that I thought teenagers would be using."