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Start by booking a few nights at Hotel on the Cay (pronounced "key"), which marries the accommodations of a luxury resort with a little local zest. Though set on its own private island (Protestant Cay), the hotel is just a ferry ride away from the shops, bars, and buzz of Christiansted boardwalk. It also offers an all-you-can-eat beach barbecue on Tuesday nights — steel band, dancers, and Moko Jumbies (there to protect you from evil spirits; you're welcome) included. Rooms start around $100 a night.