How to Apply Lower-Lid Eyeliner
Stop What You're Doing and Try the Under Cat-Eye Liner!
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We've totally mastered the run-of-the-mill cat-eye liner look, but this under-eye version from the Nicholas K runway is next on our makeup mastery list. Avon global celebrity makeup artist Lauren Anderson created this eyeliner to complement the Saharan theme of the Spring 2015 clothing collection. We're planning to wear this look to our next mod-inspired party.
With the help of Francesca Roman at the Butterfly Studio Salon in NYC, we re-created this graphic shape in slow motion (literally, every brush stroke). She taught us the dos and don'ts of layering eyeliner and why moisturizer makes the best eraser for intricate eye makeup looks like this one.
Prime Lids
With such a dramatic eyeliner look, Roman prepped lids with a matte, nude eye shadow. You can also use concealer at home to mask any veins or discoloration.
Line Lower Lashes
Dip an angled eyeliner brush in dark black powder or gel liner. "A brush controls how much powder you're applying, and you can diffuse the look," Roman said. "But crayon you have to smudge, which will give you a smoky eye effect." Start by outlining the tear duct, then follow the lower lash line until you hit the outer edge of the iris. Don't take it all the way to the corner.
Line Upper Lashes
On the upper lash line, add liner from the inner corner to the middle of the lid.
Extend the Wing
Moving back to the lower lid, draw the wing from the outside in, keeping the line straighter than the average cat-eye flick. Think of it more like an extension of the lower lash line rather than an angular shape.
Return to the Upper Lid
Bring the wing back in on the upper lid, too, leaving a small space liner-free in the center of the upper lash line.
Repeat on the Other Side
You can really vamp up the look by layering liner. "Use liquid liner for full blast," Roman said. "You can do powder with liquid on top or liquid with powder." But she does warn that using a felt-tip product will require extrafast motions, so a brush is your best bet.
Clean Up With Moisturizer
Roman used a moisturizer and cotton swabs to clean up any mistakes and give the liner a straight, sharp edge. The lotion (versus makeup remover) reduces redness if you have to do a lot of rubbing.
Conceal Under-Eye Circles
Hide any under-eye circles with concealer. For this look, it's best to save your foundation for after the eye makeup.
Contour Cheeks
With such a strong eye look, the rest of your makeup should remain neutral. Roman used Kevyn Aucoin Natura Blush ($37) and Nerinese Lip Gloss ($30).
