Take Caution With Boxed Dye
Now, if your budget doesn’t leave room for a full-service salon, take extreme caution with box dye. Medearis’s rule of thumb is, "If the smell is bothering your nose, the color is more than likely bothering your hair." Beyond that, beware of textile dyes (clothing dye), which are frequently used in conjunction with ammonia and developers.
“When it comes to ammonia-free color, some color companies use a catalyst that will damage the hair just as much as standard ammonia. If it’s truly ammonia-free, it may not be strong enough to cover coarse hair,” he adds.
Deciding on Color
When considering “fashion shades” (lavender, blue, orange), understand that the brighter the color, the blonder your natural hair must go. Black hair is naturally dry and requires deep moisture, so consider gentler developer and semipermanent color, which fades with each shampoo.
“Even with agents like Olaplex and Continuum, you run the risk of losing your natural curl pattern. The lighter you go, the more natural curl pattern you will lose,” says Medearis.
“If you don't have Olaplex or Continuum, the safest way to lighten hair, in my professional opinion, is with 20 vol. developer. The only difference between 20 vol. developer and the stronger, more damaging 30 vol. or 40 vol. developer . . . is time.”
Again, if your hair has also been exposed to other chemical processes (perms, relaxers, texturizers), dyeing may have to be performed in stages. However, lifelong naturalistas should expect a well-trained colorist to accomplish everything in one visit.
