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"Every Greek Easter, my dad and I cook a whole Spring lamb on the rotisserie over grape vines. He makes a brush out of long rosemary branches that we dip in a bucket of red wine and dried oregano and then periodically slather over the lamb as it turns. The smell is intoxicating. . . . We then gather as many people as possible and feast on the lamb and lots of traditional Greek meze, including tzatziki, taramasalata, feta, olives, dolmas, lemony potatoes, and of course ouzo and retsina. Best day of the year."