Why Lily Collins Wears Less Pink and More Pants in "Emily in Paris" Season 3

Every editorial product is independently selected by our editors. If you buy something through our links, we may earn commission.

The fashion direction for Darren Star's "Emily in Paris" season three was inspired by Lily Collins's real-life decision to cut bangs. After seeing her new style, costume designer Marylin Fitoussi found an entirely new crop of muses: Audrey Hepburn, Jane Birkin, Brigitte Bardot, Kate Moss, Anna Karina in classic Godard films, and the French New Wave, according to Netflix.

Fitoussi, who consulted with Patricia Field for seasons 1 and 2, told POPSUGAR her overall aim was to soften Emily Cooper's style. She incorporated more subtle pastel tones as the French do, bidding farewell to Cooper's bright fuchsia fetish; introduced high-waisted pants to her wardrobe as a nod to mentor Sylvie's (Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu) confident Parisian style; and swapped stilettos for chunky platforms. "Of course, we try to mix high brands with affordable brands, vintage pieces, and young French designers," she said. "I feel as if it's my duty in my work to use young designers."

Collins was an integral part of the costume conversation, bringing her own pieces onto set and voicing her opinions. "She might say, 'You know, Marylin, I think this print reminds me too much of season one.' And it is essential for me to listen to her, to understand this feeling, to assimilate it, and to make sure that I can also serenely present many more options to her," Fitoussi told Netflix. "My main interest is that she feels comfortable in her clothes . . . that they actually help in the construction of her character; that she has to act less, because the intention and mood is already visually noticeable on her through the costume."

Emily in Paris. (L to R) Bruno Gouery as Luc, Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu as Sylvie Grateau, Lily Collins as Emily, Samuel Arnold as Julien in episode 308 of Emily in Paris. Cr. Courtesy of Netflix © 2022
Netflix

Another goal for Emily's style evolution this season? To propose a mirror effect between her own aesthetic and that of Sylvie's. "Emily has observed Sylvie's codes. She's spent two seasons watching her, thinking to herself, 'She's got style, she's got pizazz,'" Fitoussi said, continuing, "Sylvie knows how to raise a collar, how to put a coat on her shoulders. I listen, I look, I integrate. And in this season, Lily puts a coat on her shoulders and puts on high-waisted pants, which she's never had before. She still does not risk what we call a 'Sylvie,' being able to release a shoulder and pull up a coat and a shirt collar. But she'll get there."

Scroll to see more of Emily's looks from Seasons 1 through 3, as well as outfits from other characters on the show, including Camille (Camille Razat), Mindy (Ashley Park), and Madeline (Kate Walsh). Plus, shop our favorites.

Camille's Style in "Emily in Paris" Season 3
Netflix

Camille's Style in "Emily in Paris" Season 3

Fitoussi describes Camille (Camille Razat) as a minimalist who rarely wears bold color or statement jewels as a nod to classic Parisian style. She does, however, have dramatic switch-ups in aesthetic, from girly sequined minidresses to more boyish cuts, such as traditionally tailored pantsuits. "She reflects another kind of femininity that it's nice to have in the show," Fitoussi told POPSUGAR.

Madeline's Style in "Emily in Paris" Season 3
Netflix

Madeline's Style in "Emily in Paris" Season 3

Fitoussi says Madeline (Kate Walsh) takes a "bigger is better" approach to style, which is very much an American sensibility that Emily also projects. AZ Factory, Herve Leger, and vintage Mugler were some of the brands Fitoussi chose to build out Madeline's wardrobe this season.

"Since she's the only recurring American character we have . . . we decided to exaggerate aspects of the American aesthetic, to caricature them a little bit. It's always very good-natured and very good-spirited. We exaggerate a little on the size of the jewels, the excess of the jewels," Fitoussi told Netflix.

Sylvie and Madeline's Cadault Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 2
Netflix

Sylvie and Madeline's Cadault Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 2

Sylvie (Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu) and Madeline (Kate Walsh) have a power clash this season, which culminates at Pierre Cadault's retrospective, where they both show up in the same dress, albeit accessorized differently. The look comes courtesy of designer Stéphane Rolland, who makes a cameo in the episode.

"I chose [the dress] because there is a very devilish side to Sylvie at the time," Fitoussi explained to Netflix. "I wanted it very minimalist; a black dress with an arch that was completely innovative in its construction. We had to make a double of this dress for Kate Walsh, who arrived a few days before the shoot, so we all crossed our fingers that it would be as beautiful on her body as it was on Philippine's physique, and it was." Walsh's look is further exaggerated with an Elsa Peretti snake necklace meant to feel a little tacky and poke fun at her American sense of style.

Étienne's Style in "Emily in Paris" Season 3
Netflix

Étienne's Style in "Emily in Paris" Season 3

Mindy's fellow band member Étienne (Jin Xuan Mao) has a wardrobe full of pieces bought from luxury retailer and vintage sites for season three. In the first episode, Fitoussi reveals he wears items from Parisian shop Addicted, along with the above sheer Bershka leggings. She sourced plenty of Cavalli pieces for him throughout the rest of the season.

Mindy's Mugler Catsuit, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 3
Netflix

Mindy's Mugler Catsuit, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 3

Mindy's (Ashley Park) jumpsuit was bought from the Mugler fashion house by the wardrobe department, meant to reflect her explosive joy when she sings Dua Lipa's "Don't Start Now" onstage. Many of Mindy's stage costumes, sourced from young designers that work in the drag scene, were a subtle salute to Lido cabaret, an establishment that recently closed in Paris.

Camille's Balmain Graffiti Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 1
Netflix

Camille's Balmain Graffiti Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 1

Camille wears the statement piece with thick opticals, denim, and a Louis Vuitton Twist PM crossbody bag.

Emily's Leslie Amon Gingham Set, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 5
Netflix

Emily's Leslie Amon Gingham Set, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 5

The custom bikini coordinates are accessorized with L.G.R Twiga sunglasses and Tods raffia sandals.

Emily's Yellow DSquared2 Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 9
Netflix

Emily's Yellow DSquared2 Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 9

The DSquared2 double-breasted blazer coat is layered over a Stella McCartney top and Louis Vuitton shorts. She finished the look with a vintage Christian Lacroix headscarf, Gucci bag, Paul & Joe socks, and Malone Souliers shoes.

Emily's Essentiel Antwerp Sweater, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 1
Netflix

Emily's Essentiel Antwerp Sweater, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 1

One of Emily's most colorful outfits, her Essentiel Antwerp multicolor intarsia knit sweater is styled with a Dundas metallic zipper-front skirt, Maison Skorpios green knee-high boots, and a pink Louis Vuitton Petit Malle bag.

Emily's Pink Feather Cape, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 1
Netflix

Emily's Pink Feather Cape, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 1

Emily's pink feather cape is important to the plot line of the story, shares Fitoussi. It marks one of the last times she wears the bright fuchsia shade of pink, which we saw her in often throughout the first two seasons. Now, Emily has evolved into a more Parisian look with a softer palette, and Sylvie's more muted aesthetic is rubbing off on her.

"When I knew that she was supposed to fall [from the Eiffel Tower in her dream], I wanted her to look like a paradise bird," Fitoussi said. She custom-created the cape from scratch and then had it sent to Marcy Plumes, who dyed the feathers pink and red to complement the Magda Butrym dress worn underneath. Fitoussi told Netflix she was inspired by visions of Jean-Paul Goude's ad for Chanel starring Vanessa Paradis. The look is finished with a pair of mint Casadei platform pumps.

Emily's Courreges Orange Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 3
Netflix

Emily's Courreges Orange Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 3

Her bright topper is paired with black trousers and a Léclisse Rotonde bag.

Emily's Vintage Pucci Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 9
Netflix

Emily's Vintage Pucci Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 9

The colorful jacket is styled over a Louis Vuitton tweed cropped tank and Ines de la Fressange pants secured with a vintage Miu Miu belt. Emily accessorizes with a Valentino bag, Essentiel Antwerp shoes, and GCDS glasses.

Camille's Schiaparelli Cardigan, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 4
Netflix

Camille's Schiaparelli Cardigan, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 4

The black-and-white anatomy cardigan has Schiaparelli's signature avant-garde metal hardware shaped into brass ears, and is crafted from ecru denim with black leather trim.

Emily's Mary Katrantzou Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 7
Netflix

Emily's Mary Katrantzou Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 7

The graphic patterned statement piece is capped off with purple Skorpios suede boots and a yellow transparent Tod's jacket. Prada's yellow triangle leather shoulder bag completes the look.

Emily's Paco Rabanne Sequin Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 3
Netflix

Emily's Paco Rabanne Sequin Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 3

The gradient chainmail dress is worn on a date night out with Alfie.

Emily's Green Miu Miu Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 4
Netflix

Emily's Green Miu Miu Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 4

The archival piece was layered over a JC de Castelbajac top and Emanuel Ungaro skirt — and styled with Louis Vuitton shoes and Simone Wild socks.

Emily's Livy Gingham Bra, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 5
Netflix

Emily's Livy Gingham Bra, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 5

The checkered bra is actually part of a bikini set, and coordinated underneath a Barbara Bui pre-fall 2017 collection jacket.

Emily's Jean Paul Gaultier Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 3
Netflix

Emily's Jean Paul Gaultier Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 3

The archival polka-dot piece is worn over a striped Celine athletic knit sports bra and capped off with palazzo pants and Christian Louboutin Movida Jane patent leather platform pumps in bordeaux.

Emily's Zebra Print Top, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 2
Netflix

Emily's Zebra Print Top, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 2

Confirmed to be one of Lily Collins's favorite Emily looks in season three, the structural top is styled with low-rise cotton Miu Miu shorts, sheer Falke tights, and Christian Louboutin's Superyaz platform velvet sandals.

Emily's Iris Apfel x H&M Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 6
Netflix

Emily's Iris Apfel x H&M Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 6

This statement jacket, made from purple synthetic ruffles, is worn over a Giuseppe Di Morabito floral print bustier dress left over from season two, which Fitoussi felt called for extra panache with an exaggeration of proportion.

Emily's Lumina Houndstooth Coat, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 2
Netflix

Emily's Lumina Houndstooth Coat, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 2

The blown-up houndstooth print purple coat is styled over Swiss designer Kevin Germanier's neon knitted separates. Germanier was tapped multiple times throughout the season for his unique beaded and feathered pieces. Emily caps off the look with GCDS yellow shoes.

Emily's Mira Mikati Blazer, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 2
Netflix

Emily's Mira Mikati Blazer, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 2

The neon checked piece is worn over a Petit Bateau striped top with cobalt Ines de la Fressange sailor pants, a Pierre Hardy bag, Miu Miu shoes, and Emily's gold initial "E" necklace from Vanrycke Paris.

Emily's Giambattista Valli Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 10
Netflix

Emily's Giambattista Valli Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 10

Emily has a couture moment when she wears this fall 2019 high-neck ruffled rosette design from Giambattista Valli's archives.

Camille's Balmain Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 1
Netflix

Camille's Balmain Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 1

Camille completes the look with Patou trousers, Zeus + Dione sunglasses, and Nodaleto boots.

Emily's Courreges Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 2
Netflix

Emily's Courreges Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 2

Emily accessorizes her vintage Courreges minidress with Valentino sunglasses and Seymoure gloves.

Emily's Magali Pascal Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 2
Netflix

Emily's Magali Pascal Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 2

Emily's high-low dress looks stylish paired with Terry de Havilland disco platforms, a Carel scuba tote, Miu Miu sunglasses, and a Nach Bijoux necklace.

Camille's Valentino Blazer, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 2
Netflix

Camille's Valentino Blazer, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 2

Camille styles the white blazer as a dress with Roger Vivier embellished loafers, Valentino cat-eye sunglasses, and a Patou wicker bag.

Mindy's Yellow Ruffle Top, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 2
Netflix

Mindy's Yellow Ruffle Top, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 2

Mindy coordinates her MSGM crop top with MSGM tweed fringe shorts, a Maison Michel Paris hat, Terry de Havilland rose-gold platforms, and a Roger Vivier raffia bag.

Emily's Mary Katrantzou Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 4
Netflix

Emily's Mary Katrantzou Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 4

Emily's Mary Katrantzou Rodrizo bird dress is styled with a printed Vassilis Zoulias jacket, Maison Skorpios leather boots, and a checkered bucket hat.

Emily's Vassilis Zoulias Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 5
Netflix

Emily's Vassilis Zoulias Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 5

Emily wears this memorable mixed-print dress with a blue Moynat Paris leather bag.

Mindy's PrettyLittleThing Set, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 6
Netflix

Mindy's PrettyLittleThing Set, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 6

The affordable acid-wash tie-dye set is styled with Terry de Havilland platforms and a graphic print envelope clutch.

Julien's Pokémon Pants, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 6
Netflix

Julien's Pokémon Pants, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 6

Julien pairs his vintage denim from Levi's with a neon T-shirt and an orange jacket.

Emily's Pink Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 6
Netflix

Emily's Pink Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 6

Emily wears her hair up to show off the backless cut on her fuchsia Vassilis Zoulias dress.

Emily's Pink Balmain Skirt, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 7
Netflix

Emily's Pink Balmain Skirt, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 7

The tweed miniskirt, finished with gold buttons down the front, is styled with a hot-pink cold-shoulder top and a Mark Cross 1845 mini leather trunk bag.

Emily's Zara Vest, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 9
Netflix

Emily's Zara Vest, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 9

Emily wears the Zara vest unbuttoned to reveal her Maje bow sweater, Valentino logo belt, and Miu Miu houndstooth skirt. The look is further accessorized with a chunky pearl choker and Roger Vivier mini heart wallet.

Emily's Balmain Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 9
Netflix

Emily's Balmain Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 9

Emily's two-toned Balmain dress is a statement in and of itself, accessorized minimally with delicate jewelry.

Emily's Yellow Prada Bag, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 9
Netflix

Emily's Yellow Prada Bag, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 9

Emily wears a vintage Courreges checked jacket, highlighting the yellow shade with her Prada Cleo bag, wool fedora, and Seymoure leather gloves.

Emily's Rianna + Nina Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 10
Netflix

Emily's Rianna + Nina Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 2, Episode 10

The bright graphic-print jacket is accessorized with Christian Louboutin's pink Marie Jane ruffle tulle bag and Gianvito Rossi turquoise ankle-tie sandals.

Emily's Alice + Olivia Blouse, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 1
Netflix

Emily's Alice + Olivia Blouse, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 1

Emily showcases her love for print mixing in an Alice + Olivia blouse worn over a Re/Done henley cropped tank and finished with Ronny Kobo's snakeskin-print skirt. Accessories include Christian Louboutin's multicolor Gorgona booties and an ivory Aldo purse.

Emily's Ganni Yellow Skirt Set, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 1
Netflix

Emily's Ganni Yellow Skirt Set, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 1

Her Ganni separates are cinched with a Rag & Bone belt and coordinated with a Patricia Field bag, Elie Saab sandals, and a Tana Chung rose-gold necklace.

Emily's Tulle Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 2
Netflix

Emily's Tulle Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 2

Emily's Alexandre Vauthier strapless tulle dress is cinched with a vintage Chanel belt.

Emily's Green Chanel Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 5
Netflix

Emily's Green Chanel Jacket, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 5

Emily has a high-low moment in Chanel, styling this resort 2020 jacket over a Brandy Melville plaid skirt. The look is finished with a Staud Bissett bag, Kangol bucket hat, Christian Louboutin So Kate collage booties, and Chanel logo stud earrings.

Emily's Christian Siriano Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 6
Netflix

Emily's Christian Siriano Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 6

Emily's off-the-shoulder Christian Louboutin dress has a subtle chevron print and is styled with Cosmoparis embellished pumps.

Emily's White Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 9
Netflix

Emily's White Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 9

Emily's white one-shoulder cocktail dress, with its asymmetrical hem, is the work of Stephane Rolland Couture.

Emily's Off-White Puffer, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 10
Netflix

Emily's Off-White Puffer, "Emily in Paris" Season 1, Episode 10

Emily styles her floral Off-White puffer jacket and dress with a pink beret, as one does.